• Chapters

    Surfs up.

    These past couple weeks has been the most i’ve been to local beaches, like ever. We’ve taken our lunches in the surf, and getting tans on our backs. Yesterday i caught my biggest wave boogie boarding, and also got a reminder why i’m still not completely fond of the ocean. The waves were much, much bigger, so the wave that i did catch i rode all the way down to the shore. It was a pretty interesting feeling, but i don’t have enough awareness of what was going on around me. Its going to take some getting used to, to understand what the ocean and the waves are doing out…