Surfs up.

surfsup.jpg

These past couple weeks has been the most i’ve been to local beaches, like ever. We’ve taken our lunches in the surf, and getting tans on our backs. Yesterday i caught my biggest wave boogie boarding, and also got a reminder why i’m still not completely fond of the ocean. The waves were much, much bigger, so the wave that i did catch i rode all the way down to the shore. It was a pretty interesting feeling, but i don’t have enough awareness of what was going on around me.

Its going to take some getting used to, to understand what the ocean and the waves are doing out there. Especially since there was this yellow sludge of bubbles on on the surface of the water. It was pretty disgusting not knowing what the hell it was. The final disaster was when i caught a wave too late and got stuck at the bottom of the wave not knowing what to do, which finally had me flipping over, and getting all this salt water up my nose which instantly makes me start to gag. I was done, but i ended the day with a nicely even tan on the beach though.