At Pizzeria Mozza, currently the toughest ticket in Los Angeles, Nancy Silverton has people arguing over the entire paradigm of what a pizza might be. Her pizza is airy and burnt and risen around the rim, thin and crisp in the center, neither bready in the traditional Neapolitan manner nor wispy the way you find pizza in the best places in Tuscany. The crust is sweet and bitter, salty and chewy, circled by crunchy charred bubbles that may or may not be snipped off by Silverton or her chef, Matt Molina, as they inspect the pizzas at the pass. Every pizza at Mozza is a unique marriage of flour, salt and hot-burning almond wood, stretched into irregular disks, as individually lovable as children, topped with sausage and wild fennel, or squash blossoms and burrata , or fried eggs and purÃ©ed anchovies. Mario Batali is a part owner, and the buzziness and heat may remind you of the menus at Otto, Batali€™s pizza parlor in Greenwich Village, although Mozza€™s pizza is better than Otto€™s. The antipasti, which are mostly vegetables, include crackling, deep-fried squash blossoms stuffed with oozing ricotta cheese. David Rosoff€™s all-Italian wine list is short and obscure but loaded with delicious things to drink, and nothing is over $50. Still, Mozza is a simple pizzeria €” Osteria Mozza, the more serious half of the operation, won€™t open until midsummer. 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., (323) 297-0101 or www.mozza-la.com. Open daily noon€“mid. Valet parking. AE, M, V. Italian pizzeria. $$
Good Job Kobe! Now get back to work!
Speaking of pizza, this week i went to Lamonica’s in westwood for some pizza after going to Cabo Cantina for some beers, and thoroughly destroyed the roof of my mouth. I took one bite and knew i was done for, and about half way through eating i could feel the roof of my mouth start peeling off. Bit by bit, little pieces of flesh got tongued off, and now i have a new layer of skin on the roof of my mouth. Just wanted to share that with you guys.